We have found the easiest way to install fencing is to follow the below listed steps. The whole process is to permanently alter the deer's pathway. They are browsers following their noses to your buffet. We are going to change their habits. The fence is virtually invisible and needs to be flagged especially when it crosses their trails. The fence should be firmly tight but not too tight. All components should move somewhat, pinched tight, the plastic will weaken. In many instances fencing will pass through trees where branches fall. We do get snow, and the fence being very pliable, does not stand alone well without support. It is therefore strongly recommended that tension cable be used on the top of the fence for stability and protection. A 2nd cable may be used at the 3' - 4' height which is the impact zone. Deer do not challenge the fence directly but may accidently run into the fence during the 'friskey' time of the autumn mating season.
Two major points - the top of the fence needs to remain as invisible as possible. The deer will nose the bottom of the fence and try to crawl underneath. The unique invisibiity of the fence precludes the deer from jumping over if they cannot really see the top. They will try to crawl under, so specific effort must be paid to folding the fence outwards 6-8" and holding it tightly to the ground with stakes, rocks, logs whatever your situation allows.
More detailed instructions pertaining to your purchase will be made available electronically.
| Step 1: | Clear the fence line approximately 2' wide of branches, brush and overhead branches to 7'. |
| Step 2: | Determine placement of posts and gates. Heavy Duty posts may be spaced 20' apart. Medium Duty posts 20' apart. Light garden posts 10' apart. Place inserts, using the appropriate driving cap. Keep vertical with trial placement of post every once in a while to check. Light posts use a spirit level. Place posts into the insert. |
| Step 3: | Once all the posts and gates are in position, it is time for the tension cable. Using a gripple, form a loop around the first post at 6.5' - 7' off the ground. Run the cable along the fence line at the 7' height attaching to posts/trees for up to 150'. Make sure cable is on the outside of posts and trees. At an appropriate anchor point cut the cable after pulling it a little snug leaving enough to pass through another gripple to form a loop around this second anchor point. Gently pull the cable and push / pull the cable through the gripple to tighten the cable for that section. NOT TOO TIGHT at this stage. |
| Step 4: | Continue with the cable placement for the following sections until all the cable is in place. Once all the cable is in position you can go back to tighten further from one section to another. Using rubber coated garden gloves makes the cable tightening easier. No special tool is required. |
| Step 5: | Fence time! At your start point, hold fence vertical and attach (tree, post, building) ensuring there is 6" of fence available to flare to the outside at ground level. Attach the fence to the cable about every 5 - 10' to keep it off the ground. Continue unrolling and attaching to your next post/tree. The fence can then be pulled tight sliding down the cable (like a curtain). Attach to post/tree three to four times then continue on. Once the fence has been unrolled go back and attach fence to cable at 18" intervals. |
| Step 6: | OK the fence is up, now for the most important part. Attaching the fence tightly to the ground using stakes, rocks, logs whatever. Care and attention at this time will give you a good solid fence. The top is snug and clean looking, the body of the fence is snug being pulled and held to the ground. Now communicate with the little darlings - place the flagging every 10' or so to let them know their territory has gotten smaller. Extra flagging at the junction of fence and crossing trails adds extra notice. |